Fin [The End] en España

This is my last blog entry in Madrid, Spain. I offer a popular rhyme that I learned 30 years ago, and I am now being totally unoriginal in using it:  Colorín colorado, este cuento se acabado; all good things come to pass.  The three weeks have gone by too fast and I found myself growing comfortable with a new routine - so much so that the final few days I found myself leaving the apartment without my camera and being less present during my walks to class along la gran via.  When I started this I did not know how I might reconnect with Spain.  I came here more focused on the language practice but I resulted in feeling and remembering things unexpected.  I attribute a great deal of the experience here to the connections I made at the language school, Don Quijote, in Madrid.  I've done a similar program in Munich, Germany with the Goethe Institute for about the same amount of time (one of those great training benefits provided to me by my previous employer that I allude to in one of my first blog entries).  The language was German of course.  Because of the cultural differences, and my own disposition, the language teachers here in Madrid seemed much more connected with their students.  Let me be clear, if you were available to connect so were they.  Not everyone of course makes the connection... well, and you know... some people's baggage or predisposition simply doesn't permit it.  I don't know how else to express this.  Let me try and summarize what I think I have learned in this brief refresh, and I'm not talking about the language.

I will try not to compare the economic or political system here to any other - I think that is something left to minds greater than mine. I will only comment on what I've seen and experienced because I think it has made an impact on my perspective moving forward.  Things are not easy in Spain.  They have a social welfare system that provides for people to a certain extent.  In the 25 years they have been in the European Union they have steadily implemented measures to create a social welfare net working towards a European ideal of what a civilized society should be.  I am amazed at the social, infrastructure, and cultural changes and advances I see.  I cannot list them all, but they are many.  From legalizing gay marriage to almost eliminating class distinctions in their language, it is not the Spain I knew 30 years ago at age 17 and 18.  I say things are difficult because their government and public sector is quite large, in times of feast this is ok, but during times of famine it has created a great deal of hardship and uncertainty.  As in the USA, it is particularly hard on the younger people.  Finding work is extremely difficult and I have noted that many or most are pessimistic about the future.  Again, I think there are some parallels with my own country, but the crisis here seems much more severe. [updating this post with a link to a useful and informative article from the New York Times on the subject:  Safety Net Frays in Spain, June 27, 2010, Madrid.]

Today in the last day of class we watched scenes from an old Spanish film produced during the time of Generalismo Francisco Franco:  Bienvenido Mr. Marshall.  If you want to take a walk into Spain's recent past, this film shows you that Spain has seen worse times when it was isolated from the rest of the world - very much like Cuba in many ways.  They are leagues away from what they were in those days.  I'm not sure the younger folks appreciate this.

Returning to me and my departure, I want to end  my final post by sharing a song I've come to appreciate only since returning to Spain and it has haunted my thoughts about returning to Seattle.  This is my last geek moment, and I will translate the parts of the song that I think are most impactful.  Follow the link and listen for yourself if you have time or inclination.

Rosana - Para Nada (excerpt):

¿Para qué continuar viviendo deprisa? [why continue living so fast?]

buscando la suerte en la mierda que pisas? [looking for luck in the shit you walk through]
te vas a volver a quedar sin volar ¿para qué? [you'll still be unable to fly, what for?]
Para nada, para nada [for nothing, for nothing]
¿Para qué? ¿para qué? para nada [what for, what for?  for nothing]

¿Para qué fusilar el olvido? [why shoot your oblivion?]
¿para qué si te pones a tiro? [why be shot?]
¿para qué? para nada [for what? for nothing]

The song ends on a positive note.  To paraphrase:  not for nothing,  you can break the ropes, you can drink life, you can fly.  This is the perspective and spirit that I leave with.

I'll be thinking about what to do next with my blogging.  I welcome any ideas.

Thanks for reading and following my time here.  Un abrazo muy fuerte.

Cultural Intelligence & Fluency

While traversing Madrid in my formal language sessions and day to day life I've taken note of something that's happened to me often.  I speak Spanish fairly well, and certainly well enough for a usual transaction (i.e. ordering food).... you'd think.  There have been times when I just was caught off guard by the way in which a question has been asked or a statement made.  This isn't about language anymore but rather about culture, manners, and expectations.

When it comes down to it, if I may engage in stereotypes, Madrid is the New York City of Spain.  An unfair comparison for sure since I find the Madrileños [someone from Madrid] very approachable and willing to engage.  It's how they engage that perhaps reminds me of New Yorkers:  direct, to the point, very few words.  So, when engaging anywhere with any other culture, you have to reflect a bit on your own cultural roots in addition to language.  I learned my Spanish originally in Extremadura in a very small town (Plasencia) where I completed my final year of High School in a Spanish public school.  The culture in this part of Spain is more like one might expect, slower in pace, more polite, perhaps even more traditional.  Also, I think as an American I am a bit southern, culturally, and I have been told I am overly polite and formal here in Spain.  In Madrid, for example, a waiter may approach your table and simply say:  "Algo de beber" [something to drink] and often you usually only hear"..go ..beber." you need to interpret this, if you are like me, as:   "Good afternoon, my name is Ignacio, I'll be your waiter today.  Would you care for something to drink?"  Which is what I tend to expect - keep in mind, I've been living in Seattle for 10 years where people walk down the street smiling to themselves.  Often, I just am not paying attention or they say it so abruptly without inflection I don't get it.  They get frustrated and then switch into English (since that seems to be what all "foreigners" understand) if they know any.  Of course I know what "algo de beber" is... I simply expect more polite approaches in certain circumstances. 

Also, If you already speak Spanish, people are not formal here anymore and do not use "Usted" - from the waiters to strangers on the street, everyone speaks here in the familiar "tu."  This is a huge change in Spain over the past 20 years.  You have to be informal (using "tu" and "vosotros") with everyone and don't be offended when everyone (even service staff) is "familiar" with you.  I stopped using "usted/es" after my very first day here and have not used it once since - except when I helped a distinguished elderly lady one time on La Gran Via and we chatted a bit.  I might still recommend being formal with older folks, simply out of respect.

I go to a local gym in the neighborhood and there is a young woman that works reception here (¡hola Sandra!) - she and I had one of these encounters.  Since then Sandra has been helping me understand some of the peculiarities of Madrid culture and in exchange I help her with some English (I speak in Spanish, she speaks in her English 10 minutes when I come in and 10 minutes when I leave) - in exchange I get a free towel to use.  Like I said, people here are direct and abrupt, but they are also extremely willing to engage and talk - they take time out for social interaction of all types.  In this they differ from some other city dwellers around the world.

Random picture of the day (right):  taken at the Circulo de Bellas Artes with Donna - I call this "Madrileña con carne"  [Madrid woman with meat].  I don´t remember the actual title or artist of the work.  I thought it was interesting - she's so pretty.

[geek moment]  A useful expression or term, especially when discussing politics (i.e. Sr. Zapatero) in these days of the financial crisis:  Cabeza de Turco.  The expression is used as we use "Scape Goat" and literally translates as "Head of a Turk."  Long story short:  in the days of the crusades, it was a hobby to cut off the enemy's head (a Turk) and display it.  It was also customary to blame all ills on the Turks, even if the ills were committed by non-Turks.  The term is in popular use, even though we'd think it politically incorrect... in addition to being a little too graphic, imho.  Common use of this expression would seem to indicate how grudges & prejudice may stick in a collective psychy - but I could be wrong.

Tomorrow is my last day of classes and my last full day in Madrid before returning home.  If the love of my life wasn't back in Seattle, and the dog, I'd stay until I started work in the Fall/Winter.

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

Eating and Drinking with Donna

I'm dedicating this entry to eating and drinking in Madrid.  I haven't made an entry for a few days as I've been busy either in class, reading, or with my friend Donna who's been visiting me here in Madrid since last Friday.

We've covered a lot of territory, cafés, bars, and shops.  A huge part of visiting Madrid is walking, talking, stopping at a café for "una copa o una caña" (typically a wine or a beer).  Donna has become completely enamored with a local summer favorite, Tinto de Verano.  I must admit, it is tasty, but it is typically a feminine drink - and it is a little sweet for me.  I opt for beer. Beers are typically small and refreshing.

Eating in Madrid isn't a passive or non-interactive experience.  I recommend the menu of the day, usually written on a chalk board in front as you enter with the price - a full 3 course mid-day meal (salad/appetizer, main, desert, coffee, and beer) will run you about 10 Euros (~12 USD) per person.  This is a real deal considering the quality and amounts.  Some places have written menus, many (of the most reasonable and authentic) do not - you will need to understand the menu and remember what you want once inside - the waiter/waitress of course will repeat the menu to you verbally should you forget - they may or may not speak English.  I'm including a couple of photo examples of how you will need to expect to find a menu as you walk along.  For mid-day, get to one of these little places no later than 2:30 - they usually open by 2pm.  By 3pm you won't get a seat.  There are several places I (and Donna) recommend.

First, El Mercado de San Miguel is a must see, but try to get there just before lunch rush (2pm) or it is rather intimidating and very crowded - if you are not used to Spanish togetherness, you may not enjoy at prime time.  Donna and I passed through but did not eat here.  Instead we settled (not really) for a wonderful, unassuming little place just across the street:  Emma + Cocina (Emma + Kitchen).  The café is so understated, you'd pass it by (see picture).  I magnified the little sign over the door so you can see just how unassuming this place is.  They offer fantastic tapas, and Donna says they make a mean Tinto de Verano. 

Another thing to mention about these restaurants:  if you are open and observant, this is a very personal experience.  These tend to be family businesses.  Typically people from the neighborhood visit these places regularly, and the restaurants cater to their local clientele, particularly in my "barrio" Malasaña.  Other parts of the city may offer more cafés that cater quite a bit to tourists.  Note the board in this dining room (sala) that announces (and personalizes) who is working in the kitchen, dining room, bar, etc.  The picture (right) provides an example of this.  Typically, these places have 5 to 6 tables, maybe they hold 15 people and the kitchen is usually visible.  Keep in mind, if you are unfamiliar with the foods and drinks, engage your camarero/a in coversation for recommendations and be fearless in your choices.

Sorry for the quick post and no geek moments!

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

World Cup & Current Events

I have the pleasure of being in Madrid for the beginning of the World Cup in South Africa... or so I thought.  Yesterday had three distinct phases to it:  before, during, and after.  Before the match between Spain and Switzerland people were energized and excited.  During the match, which I will admit I only watched for a minute or two in a bar and couldn't stand the cigarette smoke, it was madness in any bar.  If you were walking the streets, it was as if someone dropped a neutron bomb; the streets and plazas normally over-filled with people were completely empty.  Afterwards, people were literally depressed (and if you don't follow, Spain lost in an upset or unexpected loss to the Swiss).  You would think that the president had been shot or worse, they had to go back to work.  It's been fun to observe and then discuss, because I'm finally learning how World Cup works and what people think about what team/nationality.  I even have a poster on my wall that I bought in my el Pais last weekend that shows all the teams, groups, dates, etc.  They have a great statistics site if you can navigate Spanish.  The Spanish team has two more chance not to lose (Honduras & Chile next week).

Also, I'm in Madrid during turbulent economic times - unemployment is high here and the government is debating austerity measures to address the national debt.  IMHO and to summarize a bit harshly, they have too many civil servants and too small a private sector and they need to lower salaries in the public sector.  Also, they have too many retired people with state pensions, the population is aging faster than young people are coming into the work force and their immigration policies don't address this deficit - common balancing acts across Europe to varying degrees.  So, they are also proposing that retirement ages be raised.  This is a bit of an entitlement society, unlike us in the US where our attitude tends to the other extreme, no one deserves anything.... especially if you're already poor [sorry, had to add that last bit].  Strikes and protests are brewing; July, August, and September are going to be rough.  A strike with the Madrid Metro will begin Monday June 28, 2010 - thank goodness I will be leaving on Saturday just before - it would be a royal pain to get to the airport without the Metro.

[geek moment]  Here is simple little reminder when talking about a date or a meeting with a friend.  There are two verbs used, one used commonly by foreigners.  Encontrarse (to meet or encounter) and quedar(se) (to stay or remain or meet).  English speakers tend to use "Encontrarse" a bit too much.  Note that this may reflect a peculiar usage in Spain.

-Quedar con alguien (to meet someome for a planned date) i.e. Quedamos en la Puerta del Sol [Let's meet at the Puerta del Sol]
-Quedarse con alguien (to stay with someone) i.e. Yo me quedo con mi esposo.  I'm staying with my husband (could mean a couple of things!)
-Encontrarse con alguien (to meet someone by coincidence or chance) i.e. Yo me encontré con Clara cuando estaba en Córdoba [I met up with Clara when I was in Cordoba].

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

¡Heavens Madrid!

Today after classes I visited another exhibition here in Madrid, ¡Oh Cielos!, in El Circulo de Bellas Artes.  It's a rather unconventional space and was founded in 1880 - the building is pretty amazing and I spent time just climbing the grand staircase. There is a current exhibit on the top terrace (7th floor) that is open air, photographs of Madrid through time in commemoration of the 100 year anniversary of the main thoroughfare in Madrid: La Gran Via. The Photographs are interesting, alternate, thought provoking and all of that. The views of Madrid from the terrace are worth the 2 Euro entry fee, regardless of the exhibit. The snapshots I'm including in this post really tell it.

Just one silly thing to mention, and I'm not sure if this is particularly Spanish, or simply human nature, but in the elevator there was a sign posted to the large mirror to the left of the doorway that read "Do Not Touch" in Spanish and English - meaning, do not touch the mirror.  The mirror was covered with finger prints.  I had to join in and add my own.  In Germany, I'm certain the mirror wouldn't even have a sign.  I kept looking for a camera to see if it was some sort of test.

[geek moment]  In Spanish you can speak about the future and NOT use the future tense.  In English we can't or don't do this.  Example:

- Si yo hubiera (past subjunctive) terminado (present perfect) de leer el libro esta tarde, te lo devolvería (conditional).

- The closest I can come to translating this is:  If I may finish the book this afternoon, I would return it to you.  But I don't think I'd ever say this in English.  I would likely say:  If I finish this book, I will (future) return it to you.  It's implied that if I don't finish the book, you're not gonna get it back.

As I said to my language coach today, this may be fluency, but I still don't think, in terms of my own personal style, I'd ever say this, in Spanish, in this way.  I tend to say I'm going to do something, or not.  But, if I eventually work in the field of diplomacy, this could be quite useful.  For now I think she's really trying to lash me with super complicated sentence structures that most people don't even consider using.  Although, I could be wrong.

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

Simply, Shopping

This entry is dedicated to shopping in Madrid.  I won't attempt to address the topic holistically; remember, this blog is about me.  So, I'll share with you my jaded perspective and the things I seek out. 

[Please note:  there are a number of super cool boutique shops throughout the Malasaña district, particularly on my street, Calle del Barco.  I'll post a bit more information by updating this entry a few more times, watch this particular post if shopping is your passion.]

First, if you travel much you know we live in a global economy.  For good or for bad, they've screwed up the adventure that used to be shopping while on travel.  All local "souvenir" craft items, whether a commemorative plate or torero's hat, are all made in China.  Also, why should I buy Nike or Levis when I can do that back home? The global brands have created a sense of sameness and illusion of choice around the world.  The work and adventure begins for me in a place when I can access a local person, enquire about unusual, local, eccentric goodies.  That's probably why I inadvertently rented an apartment in the Malasaña district of Madrid, the equivalent of the East Village in New York City... if you don't know what that means:  the bohemian, local fashion, youth oriented, totally not yuppie district.

I have a thing for flea markets, I love wandering around these and looking at all the old things that show up, imagining the history behind them.  This can be especially fun in Europe since there is simply so much old stuff lying about. I've gone to many flea markets from London, Prague, Vienna (my favorite), Warsaw, Brussels, Kiev, Helsinki, Berlin to Geneva. The one in Madrid, el Rastro, seems to be marketed as the largest one in Europe; well, it's large, but I am not sure it's the largest.  Also, this one has a lot of tourist trinkets, cheap textiles, and just old junk.  Nothing tempted me. If you decide to go, do so early by at least 9am.  It is a mob scene and if you try to take the Metro later in the day good luck.  I went early and ran into the crowds streaming out of La Latina Metro station.  Another reason to avoid the crowd is the pick pockets.  They are everywhere and you have to be en guard.  If you are vigilant you can see if you've been targeted.  Take only the cash you may need and nothing else - police are everywhere.  I'm glad I went, but I would not go a second time.

Most tourists don't cross La Gran Via to visit the Chueca or the neighboring Malasaña districts.  Between these two "barrios" is a wonderful shopping street:  Calle de Fuencarral.  I've mentioned this street in a previous entry.  While you still find internationally branded shops (i.e. Diesel, Levis, etc.) you can also find local designers and artisans here.  I go up and down this street every day.  There are several shops I really like.  Desigual is a local Spanish brand and has its own hippie, psychedelic thing going.  I'd be wearing their stuff for men if I were a bit younger.  Glam is a fun tiny place, the shoes and t-shirts are unlike others I've seen - I love their creative marketing against the current economic/financial crisis with their Crisis Prices. A third place I found super original on this street is El Ganso [the goose] (photo right).  This shop is simply cool - they combine "mod" with "preppy" and they design/produce their own line of shoes and clothing for men and women.  I think I will likely come back with at least one pair of their shoes.  Just click on the link and see what I mean. On the Calle de Fuencarral and in general if you come to Spain, anywhere, go to a Camper shoe store.  The shoes are designed/made in Mallorca.  They are eco-friendly, local, and wonderfully made.  You can find Campers elsewhere in the world, but not the designs and at the prices you will find in Madrid.  I bought two pair today.  Take a peek at their website, it's pretty cool too.  Finally, you have to go to the Mercado de Fuencarral.  Their website seems a bit S&M - the market is not.  This is a small mall-like market with many local vendors selling all manner of locally made jewelry, cloths, and things.  If you are lucky, they'll be serving free drinks - I enjoyed this while shopping there the couple of times I have gone.

So, these are places/things I like and that I've found original about Madrid.  There are tons of other large department stores throughout the city - but their merchandise is global and you might as well stay home imho.

Now, imagine you've bought your campers and your new trendy ropa [clothing] Madrileña, put it all on and as you kick back with una copa listen to this song: El Run Run (watch the video too). ¡Me encanta!

[geek moment] a fun little reminder for estar vs. ser - the two different forms of "to be;" note these differences:
- Ella es camarera (she is a waitress) - her profession is that of a waitress
- Ella está de camarera (she is a waitress) - she is a waitress temporarily.  Typically, if you said this, I might ask you what she may be doing after her temporary stint as a waitress.

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

La Vida Cotidiana - Everyday Life

Settling into a routine, I wanted to comment on a few things to provide some insight or perspective into Spanish daily life, at least in Madrid.  For some of you this will not be so new. 

In general, the Spanish have a more pronounced rhythm to their lives than we do in the US.  Perhaps I take note of this rhythm simply because it seems to have a bit more complexity or richness to it.  In the US you can generally say that we get up, we go to work, lunch somewhere in between for an hour (if lucky), drive home at a usual time in the evening and attempt some semblance of a personal life with what's left.  Oh, and we go to bed sometime between 9pm and.. say 10pm.  Keep in mind I am generalizing.  In Spain it's different.  Up early and at work by 8, the typical Spaniard did not go to bed before midnight the night before.  There is a break by 2pm for several hours and many have lunch out taking advantage of an affordable "menu del dia" at a local restaurant, returning to work by 3 or 4pm working till 7 or 8pm.  Meeting friends at a local bar on the way home is common - the bar is the Spaniard's "sala de estar" [living room].  Dinner is most likely at home and will happen anywhere from 10 to midnight depending on the day of the week.... y repita!

Of course, our way of life seems so simple, if not boring in comparison, but their schedule is rather set.  I have fallen into this rhythm and find myself going places when they are most crowded, and avoiding them if they are empty.  The Spanish are social animals, wanting to see, converse, and be seen.  Sometimes I think we spend a bit more time (perhaps too much) avoiding people and crowds as if they are something bad.  So, for example, I've taken to going to the grocery store after hitting the local gym by about 7pm - just like everyone else.  A mad house is the only way to describe it.  A very small, close grocery store with people rubbing shoulders, hollering to one another, talking on cell phones, all while trying to shop and check out.  I love it.  In the US, I'd hate it.

As I mentioned, I've also joined a local gym,  Energy Gym, in the Chueca neighborhood - just 3 blocks from my apartment.  This is part of my local experience also.  I don't encounter any other foreigners at this particular neighborhood gym and I think I understand why.  This place is for "serious" weight lifters - or at least they take themselves so.  It's a bit foreigner-unfriendly since they won't speak anything but Spanish to you - I think they really don't want too many outsiders there.  Besides, the place is so small (claustrophobically so, as the gym review states in the link) there really isn't room for many more people.  A few times a persistent English speaker has come in and the attendant has asked me to come to the front and translate.  I know she speaks some English.

Changing subject to eating.  I'm going to list a few nearby places recommended by my coaches and that I've been to.  Como me lo como [as I eat it].  This place has a 10 Euro fixed price menu during the week - a really great, off the beaten path place that caters to locals. Another one is A 2 velas [2 candles] with a really low key, comfortable atmosphere, great food, and super great prices.  They also have a really inexpensive, nice daily menu. Gracias Clara!

[geek moment] not going to geek much on you today.  Except maybe one thing.  The word Pijo/a - It's funny how my last name haunts me.  In Czech, Picha means "snobbish pride."  Well, in Spain the word Pija or Pijo means basically the same in colloquial Spanish - snobby, posh, or yuppie.  Keep in mind the Czech pronunciation of "ch" and the Spanish pronunciation of the "j" are the same. 

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

Catching Up

I've skipped a few days of posts and will catch you up in today's.

Friday, 11 June, 2010

Related to my Spanish classes, we continue to have in-depth discussions covering everything from the Catholic church, the right to choose (a.k.a. abortion), the current economic crisis across Europe, and politics in general.  We scour the newspapers, which I have to say are much more detailed and educational in terms of economics and politics compared to the usual papers in the states.  Of course I'm talking about El País, which they say is left leaning.  But it may read more like the Wall Street Journal in parts... only in Spanish.  Here are two useful nuances I've learned this week:

[geek moment]  This first one is super useful.  While in Madrid, you HAVE to go out. The bars and cafeterías in Spain can be a challenge for foreigners.  The system, menus, and ways to engage the service are not easy to decipher and they are not foreigner user friendly.  If you wish to fit in when you are out at a bar or cafetería, not a restaurant, you need to understand when to pay.  If the bar is crowded, sometimes you´ll want to pay for your drinks and tapas up front.  If it´s comfortably slow in the bar, no.  But how you ask to pay is different in a bar.  Here are a few ways to ask for your bill, to pay, or simply find out how much you owe and not sound like a dweeb:
- Cobrame cuatro (4) cañas.  [After you've been drinking:  Bill me for 4 beers, or however many you have drunk].
- ¿Me cobras? [Can you charge me?  After you've been drinking, and perhaps you've lost count].
- Cobrame!  [Bill me!  Say this immediately after the bartender/camarero brings your drinks if you want to pay].
Of course, if you know Spanish already you know that "cobrar" is to cover - so it's a bit of a colloquial way to ask for the bill.  They will still understand you if you ask for "la cuenta,"  but you will just stand out... considerably.

Second, this is really simple and it deals with writing mostly.  The difference between allí and ahí.   Many speakers pronounce these the same and many do not - it just so happens I do not.  The "LL" is often pronounced with a "J" sound (i.e. Ayjee).  So, in spoken Spanish if you do pronounce them differently, make note.  If you write much, also note.
- "aquí" means "(en) este lugar": where the speaker is, or some nearby location.
- "ahí" means "(en) ese lugar": where the hearer is, or some location that is neither near nor far but somewhere in-between.
- "allí" means "(en) aquel lugar": where neither the speaker nor the hearer is, or some far away location. 

Of course, there is acá and allá also, simply more regional, colloquial forms of aquí and allí and will definitely mark you with certain (non-Madrid) stereotypes (i.e. hick) - they do not use either here and always comment when I do.

In the evening I hit the town with a friend from my school, Simon.  Simon will smirk as he reads this as there are many colors and shades I'm leaving out... on purpose.  I simply can't cover all the details!  We started out at about 10pm meeting for dinner at a wonderful hole in the wall place in the Chueca district.  We had a very nice, 3 course meal with a bottle of Spanish table wine (red) for about 15 Euros apiece.  The atmosphere was quaint, food traditional, and the atmosphere fun and very local.  By about midnight we hit our first bar/club.  This place, the LL Bar, has a fairly well know, perhaps infamous, drag show.  It's no fun if you don't understand the stand up routines.  A current/popular lip sync item seems to be this children's song, Yo Tengo Mi Pon Pon [I have my pom pom].  I will not comment on how the drag queens may allude to their "pon pon."  It is all very funny, although completely inappropriate and I completely blame Simon for my experiencing this tasteless act.

Afterwards we probably went to at least 3 other bars.  My only advice is, make sure you take a long nap before going out, and pace yourself at each locale - I'm talking about alcohol intake.  I got home by about 4:30am and I think this was a bit early considering the noise on my street until 7am.  I gave myself jet lag all over again.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Let's scratch Saturday altogether.  I read my Spanish assignments and took myself out for a late lunch.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

I woke up early and raced to the train station and caught the 9am high speed AVE train (Alta Velocidad Española, and "ave" is also a bird in Spanish) from Atocha (one of Madrid's train stations) to Córdoba (also spelled Córdova).  The train ride is about 2 hours and takes you through some beautiful countryside of central Spain. Córdoba is in the south in Andalucía.  As a student here in Spain I studied the Cathedral or Great Mezquita of Córdoba in Art History and have always wanted to visit.  The Cathedral is a converted mosque.  It's HUGE.  I love arabic architecture and I love the communal nature of mosques.  This one, having been chopped up in some strange ways by the christians, is a bit confusing and disturbing.  You need to make sure and spiral through it so you see everything.  Most people seem to only go around the periphery or straight to the central nave.  The overall area is at least 2 football/soccer fields.  It's disturbing if you spend time looking at how the christians hacked the place up and superimposed an entirely different architectural style and worshipping tradition on this place.  Architecturally speaking, the word "abomination" is the only one that comes to mind.  I guess we are lucky they converted the place, I suppose they would have completely leveled it otherwise like they did many other non-christian places of worship.  Any number of christian motifs have been plastered over the original Arab features -this one picture (right) of a christian component added to one of the hundreds of columns shows angels dragging the devil by his horns.  Lovely, no?

I have to say that I was able to cover most everything in the central city and have a nice, slow Spanish lunch in a beautiful court yard restaurant in about 5 hours.  So I was able to change my return ticket to Madrid and catch an earlier AVE back.  It's a beautiful city, but I'm not sure I'd spend more than a day there.  Put it on your must see list for Spain, however.

¡Hasta la próxima entrada! 

Veneris díes (Friday)

El viernes, the day of Venus or Friday, has arrived:  my second one here in Madrid.  In brief summary, the week, classes, and people I've met my first week, living in the Malasaña district of Madrid, have all been better than I'd anticipated.  Yes, you will also note that today I changed the style of my blog - I'm using the new Google online editing feature.  It's fun to work openly with cool tools again.

I'm reminded that I have not said much about my neighborhood here in Madrid:  Malasaña.  I do think I have had good luck in terms of my choice of neighborhood and apartment. I have been told that the tourists and foreigners tend to stay on the other side of the La Gran Via, and I think this is true; it seems to be a line of demarcation between tourists and locals.  So, keep the secret and visit this district when you come to Madrid - you could spend a week here and never venture out. Just remember this street name:  Calle De Fuencarral.  Also, the stores (wine & grocery) and bars are considerably less expensive, friendly, and personal.  Also, if you are going to find anything locally made, it will most likely be here.  Last night there was a fantastic party with live music in the Plaza de Dos de Mayo [square of May two] footsteps from my front door.  The band played a hybrid of funk, dance, and traditional Spanish sounds.  As a result I probably did not finally get to sleep until about 2am.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I've begun reading poetry and stories by a famous author, Mario Benedetti, with one of my language coaches.  There is one very short story, possibly the shortest story I've come across and liked, and I want to translate and share with you:  Su amor no es sencillo [Their Love Is Not Simple].

Los detuvieron por atentado al pudor. Y nadie les creyó cuando el hombre y la mujer trataron de explicarse. En realidad, su amor no era sencillo. Él padecía claustrofobia, y ella, agorafobia. Era sólo por eso que fornicaban en los umbrales.

[They were detained for indecent exposure.  And no one believed the man and the woman when they attempted to explain themselves.  In reality, their love was not simple. He suffered from claustrophobia, and she, agoraphobia. It was just for this reason why they were fornicating on the threshold.]

If you don't get it, he could not be inside the house, and she could not leave the house... so they HAD to meet in the middle.  I thought this was awfully funny.  I found this interpretation of the story on Youtube - interesting, if not a bit strange, but definitely creative:  Su amor no es sencillo [interpretation].

[geek moment]  Short and simple again - the verb haber - there is or there are.

This verb an exception and is always in the third person SINGULAR.  So, that means there is no conjugation other than "hay" and corresponding forms across other tenses (i.e. simple past, subjunctive past/present, etc).  So the key is, don't make agreements so that it may be plural.  This is a common mistake foreigners make.  Example:  No había soluciones [there were no solutions] NOT No habían soluciones; No hay soluciones and I have no idea what the third person plural agreement for hay even is in present tense.  This is an important item to note on the road to fluency in Spanish - a common error, and I do it at times too when speaking a lot or quickly.  This is an extremely important verb and used all the time.  There are exceptions of course, if you are Catalán you may also tend to make this error, with a certain degree of understanding from the listener.

Time to get ready to go out - remember, it is Friday!

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

Digging In

I skipped an entry for yesterday, you should expect some of this.  After 5 hour language sessions combined with the foul weather what can you expect.

I'm looking forward to becoming a bit more comfortable with some of the more day-to-day, mundane parts of life that come from getting to stay in the same place for a while.  I have one example of this I've started to appreciate.

The Madrid sidewalk kiosks are everywhere (example on right) - of course this is a decidedly European thing and you see these in any city or village throughout Spain.  But, in Madrid I've found them important in terms of getting information - the kiosk operators seem to know everything.  Now, will they spend the time speaking with you?  Buy something and they are quite cooperative - of course you must be able to speak Spanish with them - they are quick and to the point not having a lot of time to spare.  I have developed a familiarity with the kiosk operators at the Plaza de España.  For my language sessions I stop by on my way to class each morning to purchase a daily copy of the the country's leading, left-leaning newspaper, El País.  The other paper equivalent that leans equal amounts to the right is the ABC, more or less comparable to the U.S. Fox News of Spain, in print. The kiosk operators are great with directions, what you should read in terms of theater or movie reviews - I even got a running commentary about a Spanish comedy film just released:  Que se mueran los feos [may the ugly people die].  As a result of the kiosk operator's comment that "the movie is a puta piece of shit" and the fact I took a look at the trailer (see link), I decided not to go.  Also, many of the kiosks have free WiFi access - so take your Skype enabled 3G phone and you can chat with friends/family or access google maps to find your way around without roaming fees (as long as you are within a few hundred feet of the kiosk).  Most restaurant and bar reviews are in Spanish and English.  I could have used my useless Sprint brick-of-a-phone over here after all.

Changing subjects, one of my Spanish coaches (Clara) recommended that I make sure and visit a "lesser known" but wonderful museum near the Prado and visit an exhibit by a rather famous and popular (and still living) Spanish artist:  Miquel Barceló.  The museum is the CaixaForum (pronounced "KaishaForum").  His work is very modern, abstract, organic (he uses lots of natural materials), tactile, very large, and often a bit disturbing.  I always go to these things with 3 perspectives:  1) can I look at it; 2) is it interesting; and 3) how would it be to live with (i.e. what if I owned it).  Most of his work passed levels 1) and 2) and I appreciate the meaning and experiences he's captured in each piece.  Plus, it's important to note that a great part of this exhibit were works from others that inspired many of his pieces - so they were similar in their ability to disturb.

Now, I really have to say I was on my way out of the museum when I stopped into an exhibit as an afterthought - it's the headline exhibit in the poster I photographed (right):  FotoPres.  These are images that are "visions of war and conflict, violence and the human condition."  You will find everything from the issue of the torture and disfigurement of women in Pakistan, the atrocities in Kenya, to the simply horrific conditions in Caracas, Venezuela under Hugo Chavez.  Please follow this link and make sure and watch the first film on the page - even though the first part of it is narrated in Spanish, please wait and watch.  The images that follow the brief narrative are overwhelming.  Those of you that know me know that I am generally a fairly collected, composed person.  I did not expect to be affected quite so intensely by anything I might see this evening.  When I walked out of this exhibit I wanted to find a private place as soon as possible - I was deeply affected & moved by the images and words of each of the photographers.  Not only were the images powerful, upsetting, and graphic, but they had running films of each of the photographers explaining their direct experiences in each context.  I watched each.. perhaps stayed too long.  I'm looking forward to debating with my coach, Clara, whether this is art.  However, is it something that I think should be seen, publicly funded, and available to everyone that could possibly see and experience it?  Absolutely YES.  We don't see this kind of reality in Seattle or probably much of the US. 

[geek moment]  I will make this one brief and simple.  Did you know (I didn't) that when you use the present tense to commit to something vs using the future tense there is a huge difference?  Example:

Te lo hago (present tense) mañana - I do it for you tomorrow
Te lo haré (future tense) mañana - I will do it for you tomorrow 

Literally translated there is no apparent difference - in fact, an English speaker would assume if you are speaking about something in the future, of course you should use the future tense. NO.  It depends.  If you are sure you will do something, and you are committing to doing it, use the PRESENT tense.  If it may happen, or very unlikely you'll follow through, use the FUTURE tense.  So, those of us foreigners consistently saying we "will do something" sound like a bunch of flakes.  Now for a cultural, rhetorical question:  why would you even say you were going to do something if you have no intention of doing it? Ah... you must understand (and appreciate) the Spanish.  More of the strange but true on the road to fluency.

With that said and to lighten up, there's a party going on in my street with a live band performing, just below my dining room window - I guess there are 200 people out there dancing below my balcony. I think I have to go out!

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

Getting Started

Today began the first series of sessions with my instructors, or coaches is how I really think of them:  Clara and Esperanza (Espe) are young, attractive, positive and a pleasure to be with.  Since these were our first full sessions we spent a lot of unstructured time talking about goals, testing my overall capability, and really going off on tangents discussing everything from the issues of immigration and aging populations in the US and Europe, the party system in Spain, public/private health care systems, and more.  After five hours of this I was really talked out - which is saying something for me.  However, if we'd moved onto a bar I could have kept going over a nice Rioja or vino tinto.  Since I had a special request posted to the blog by Señorita "piggy" (that is her online name, not me calling her names) to add some geek stuff, I will get that out of the way up front as it is fresh in my brain.

[geek moment]   In my over confidence about my knowledge of grammar, Espe challenged me with some really tough phrase pairings that are seemingly similar but with very (very) different meanings.  One pair in particular stumped me.  In this set, one phrase is in past imperfect [imperfecto] and the other in past subjunctive.   I'd forgotten and got completely wrong this particular construct that requires subjunctive... so I will share.   No porque + pasado del subjuntivo.  Ejemplos:

1. El no se casó con ella porque estaba (imperfecto) embarazada.
2. El no se casó con ella porque estuviera (pasado del subjuntivo) embarazada.

The only difference between these two sentences is the fact that the verb estar is in a different tense in each example.  Do you know what each means?  I thought I did. Phrase #1 is easy:  He did not marry her because she was pregnant... the creep.  Phrase #2 at first seems like:  He did not marry her because he suspected she was pregnant... but this is WRONG.  "No porque" is its own construct, even though the No and the Porque are in separate places in the sentence.  So the true meaning of this phrase is the opposite of how I interpreted it - he did indeed marry her.. the wonderful guy.  However,  he married her NOT because she was pregnant, i.e. as if people were saying it was a "shotgun wedding" and he only married her because she was pregnant.  The true implied meaning is that he married her because of other things, i.e. because he loved her dearly.  So the implications of using the past subjunctive in this case is very positive and is so elegant in its nuanced meaning.  This is part of what I love about the language.  I hope I've explained that well enough.  This is indeed very geeky.  Otherwise, I did well with the subjunctive; however, Espe will continue to lash me.

Today's activities after my five hours of yammering in Spanish included:  wonderful tapas and a caña [small draught beer] sitting outside and people watching with some other students near La Puerta del Sol; a nice afternoon siesta, and then a walk through the book fair in Madrid's central park (el Parque Del Retiro).  The book fair was interesting for several reasons.  There were over 600 stalls full of books by topic, area, region, author, nationality, industry sector, etc.  Completely overwhelming.  Opportunities abounded to hear authors, eavesdrop on conversations (of which I did a lot), and meet others with common interests.  This is what surprised me.  After having several conversations I realized, "hey, this is a pick up place!"  Think about it, what better way to meet someone than in a place where they may read and think some of the same things you do, a book fair.  Maybe this happens in New York, but not in Seattle.... as far as I know.. way to nerdy for the Seattle grunge or suburban set. The first time someone invited me for a drink.. i thought: "oh, the Spanish are so social and friendly."  But, the second time someone actually invited me back to his flat.. well, I'm not that thick.  While I enjoyed the attention, I had reading and a blog to write at home - alone.  Besides, it began to rain perros y gatitos.

What did I find, other than attention, at the book fair?  Two great finds.  First, Espe recommended an author to me from Uruguay, the late Mario Benedetti (photo right), one of the most read authors in hispanoamerica.  He is also considered one of the Spanish speaking world's most important contemporary author.  I obtained a copy of a small edition of his writings and poetry - "Semblanzas."  Of course, the Anglo-centric ignorant person I may be, I'd never heard of him.  So now I will be reading some of his works and will be less ignorant.. and so may you.  Second, I found a book I had to have.  Perhaps you are familiar with this new genre of popular story writing that takes a famous work and somehow implicates it with zombies or vampires?  So in the English world we have 'Pride and Prejudice and Zombies' by Seth Grahame-Smith & Jane Austen on the best sellers list, no less.  Well, in Spain I found "yet another classic assaulted by zombies" - 'LaZarillo Matar Zombis Nunca Fue Pan Comido' (LaZarillo:  Killing Zombies Was Never A Breeze) - if you've studied any (I mean any) Spanish literature, you have to read 'Lazarillo de Tormes.'  I won't do a book review, you can follow the link - but it is one of the first books I read in Spanish that I actually got into and has stuck with me ever since I read it at age 17.  So, loving the zombie genre (if I may call it that) I had to acquire this version.  Hey, today's "common" is tomorrow's classic.  I'll have a rough time tomorrow, Espe will kill me.

And finally, my random street photo of the day - I might seriously consider going to see this cabaret:  Goodbye Dolly!!  But, who to go with?

I must read for tomorrow.  Pls let me know any thoughts.

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

First Day of School

The last of the two major stresses of my initiation to Madrid are past. The first was seeing an apartment I'd rented sight unseen: done, the apartment is great. The second major item was seeing the language school and meeting the staff for the first time: done, the school is nice/modern, the staff is professional, and the other participants are friendly.

There are two major themes I picked up on today that are best captured by two expressions. One expression I've made up, the other I heard for the first time only today. Can you guess which is which?

-Mira donde andas o pisar en la mierda  [Watch where you walk or tread in shit]
-Allá donde fueres, haz lo que vieres  [Wherever you may go, do what you may see]

You guessed right, I fabricated expression #1, the cruder of the two expressions. Because it's true, in Madrid you really must watch your step, especially as the day progresses. Most mornings the streets have been hosed down and are relatively clean. The second expression has an obvious English equivalent: When in Rome, do as the Romans. The first expression is practical and to be heeded literally; the second elegant and to be put into practice with some discretion lest ye forget the messages of Heart of Darkness.

[geek moment] Not only does the second expression makes use of the Spanish subjunctive, something we don't really have in English, but it is future subjunctive - something rarely used in Spanish, if ever. The use of may in the English translation is a weak attempt to capture the elegant mood expressed in this old saying.

About the course: there are about 45 people in the group - after testing and interviewing each of us we have been split up into levels. I apparently have no one else at my level. I have 3 weeks with 2 excellent instructors (Carla & Espe) in private instruction and drill sessions from 9am to 2pm each day. So, since it is just me with my "program manager" disposition, I'm working with them on customized reading lists and practice sessions for writing and speaking. I am also working on a section to improve my understanding of major differences between Castilian Spanish and variations in the Americas. From 7pm to 8pm each evening we have a literature and culture lecture all together as a group. This evening we have a welcome dinner at a local restaurant.

Late night anyone?

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!

Introduction & Background

I promised an explanation for my current trip and extended stay in Madrid, Spain.

From 2000 to July 2009 I worked in the software industry, for a fortune 100 - number 36 on Fortune's 2010 list to be exact. Due to the economic downturn, my position was eliminated and I was given the opportunity (retrospectively speaking) to do something different. More importantly, I was given time back to think about something other than job, corporate politics, reorganizations and office noise. Of course, at the time, I did not appreciate this quite the way I do now. Perhaps I could have found another role in the same company - strangely enough, it didn't occur to me to attempt this. After nearly 10 years working across a global company, maintaining a high performance rating (for those that know what it is, even winning a "gold star" from my Corporate Vice President once) getting strong experience and fantastic training, I figured it was time to finally pursue my dream job. So, this has been my perspective over the past year.

I must acknowledge my wonderful life partner's support and constant encouragement along the way - I've had my dream partner for 20 years now and he's in my thoughts in everything I do. I need to also acknowledge my former employer's very generous separation package which has really made the transition easy from a financial perspective.

I will be intentionally vague about "the dream" job since the offer is currently contingent upon a number of processes in play. I'll ask that anyone reading my blog posts privy to the facts, please maintain some confidentiality in your posts for now.... thank you! However, I can say that for this contingent opportunity I must be proficient in at least one language other than English. I studied Spanish originally here in Spain (Plasencia, Cáceres) eventually earning my B.S. in Spanish from Georgetown University and an M.A. in International Affairs from George Mason. I've worked professionally in Spanish in very limited ways. So, I am here in Madrid taking intensive immersion language training at a professional, advanced level. Just being here has reactivated so many of my memories.

My training begins tomorrow at 8am sharp!

I hope this helps explain the reason for my blogging about this. Over the course of the next three weeks I plan on posting about my training, the people I meet, and possible/subsequent realizations. I may get geeky on some of the Spanish language posts. I hope to share with you my love for Spanish, esp. Castilian Spanish, the culture, and the people as I explore out of the way parts of Madrid.

Arrived: Madrid, Spain

I'm starting a blog to capture my daily activities while in Madrid, Spain. I will be here nearly the entire month of June 2010 living in my own rented apartment. I've always wanted to begin a diary of sorts, but I've not had any incentive to actually sit and do it. The blog medium will keep me focused on getting out there in the world to experience things I may share. I don't mind having anyone read what I capture here - I'm seeking a sort of mature self enlightenment, rediscovery of some experiences past, and share them out anyway. This is not a mid-life crisis by any stretch - it is THE opportunity to reset my perspectives and live a fuller life. However, it's taken me a bit of time to decide on what tool, provider, and template to use so I haven't actually had time to enter anything since I arrived here on June 4, 2010.

So, please stand by as I enter a proper introduction later today, how I actually came to be in Madrid for the month of June 2010, catch you up with my day to day explorations, Spanish language milestones, and experiences. I will promise in advance to not be egocentric, silly, or naive; although, I reserve the right to be introspective.