Cultural Intelligence & Fluency

While traversing Madrid in my formal language sessions and day to day life I've taken note of something that's happened to me often.  I speak Spanish fairly well, and certainly well enough for a usual transaction (i.e. ordering food).... you'd think.  There have been times when I just was caught off guard by the way in which a question has been asked or a statement made.  This isn't about language anymore but rather about culture, manners, and expectations.

When it comes down to it, if I may engage in stereotypes, Madrid is the New York City of Spain.  An unfair comparison for sure since I find the Madrileños [someone from Madrid] very approachable and willing to engage.  It's how they engage that perhaps reminds me of New Yorkers:  direct, to the point, very few words.  So, when engaging anywhere with any other culture, you have to reflect a bit on your own cultural roots in addition to language.  I learned my Spanish originally in Extremadura in a very small town (Plasencia) where I completed my final year of High School in a Spanish public school.  The culture in this part of Spain is more like one might expect, slower in pace, more polite, perhaps even more traditional.  Also, I think as an American I am a bit southern, culturally, and I have been told I am overly polite and formal here in Spain.  In Madrid, for example, a waiter may approach your table and simply say:  "Algo de beber" [something to drink] and often you usually only hear"..go ..beber." you need to interpret this, if you are like me, as:   "Good afternoon, my name is Ignacio, I'll be your waiter today.  Would you care for something to drink?"  Which is what I tend to expect - keep in mind, I've been living in Seattle for 10 years where people walk down the street smiling to themselves.  Often, I just am not paying attention or they say it so abruptly without inflection I don't get it.  They get frustrated and then switch into English (since that seems to be what all "foreigners" understand) if they know any.  Of course I know what "algo de beber" is... I simply expect more polite approaches in certain circumstances. 

Also, If you already speak Spanish, people are not formal here anymore and do not use "Usted" - from the waiters to strangers on the street, everyone speaks here in the familiar "tu."  This is a huge change in Spain over the past 20 years.  You have to be informal (using "tu" and "vosotros") with everyone and don't be offended when everyone (even service staff) is "familiar" with you.  I stopped using "usted/es" after my very first day here and have not used it once since - except when I helped a distinguished elderly lady one time on La Gran Via and we chatted a bit.  I might still recommend being formal with older folks, simply out of respect.

I go to a local gym in the neighborhood and there is a young woman that works reception here (¡hola Sandra!) - she and I had one of these encounters.  Since then Sandra has been helping me understand some of the peculiarities of Madrid culture and in exchange I help her with some English (I speak in Spanish, she speaks in her English 10 minutes when I come in and 10 minutes when I leave) - in exchange I get a free towel to use.  Like I said, people here are direct and abrupt, but they are also extremely willing to engage and talk - they take time out for social interaction of all types.  In this they differ from some other city dwellers around the world.

Random picture of the day (right):  taken at the Circulo de Bellas Artes with Donna - I call this "Madrileña con carne"  [Madrid woman with meat].  I don´t remember the actual title or artist of the work.  I thought it was interesting - she's so pretty.

[geek moment]  A useful expression or term, especially when discussing politics (i.e. Sr. Zapatero) in these days of the financial crisis:  Cabeza de Turco.  The expression is used as we use "Scape Goat" and literally translates as "Head of a Turk."  Long story short:  in the days of the crusades, it was a hobby to cut off the enemy's head (a Turk) and display it.  It was also customary to blame all ills on the Turks, even if the ills were committed by non-Turks.  The term is in popular use, even though we'd think it politically incorrect... in addition to being a little too graphic, imho.  Common use of this expression would seem to indicate how grudges & prejudice may stick in a collective psychy - but I could be wrong.

Tomorrow is my last day of classes and my last full day in Madrid before returning home.  If the love of my life wasn't back in Seattle, and the dog, I'd stay until I started work in the Fall/Winter.

¡Hasta la próxima entrada!