We've covered a lot of territory, cafés, bars, and shops. A huge part of visiting Madrid is walking, talking, stopping at a café for "una copa o una caña" (typically a wine or a beer). Donna has become completely enamored with a local summer favorite, Tinto de Verano. I must admit, it is tasty, but it is typically a feminine drink - and it is a little sweet for me. I opt for beer. Beers are typically small and refreshing.
Eating in Madrid isn't a passive or non-interactive experience. I recommend the menu of the day, usually written on a chalk board in front as you enter with the price - a full 3 course mid-day meal (salad/appetizer, main, desert, coffee, and beer) will run you about 10 Euros (~12 USD) per person. This is a real deal considering the quality and amounts. Some places have written menus, many (of the most reasonable and authentic) do not - you will need to understand the menu and remember what you want once inside - the waiter/waitress of course will repeat the menu to you verbally should you forget - they may or may not speak English. I'm including a couple of photo examples of how you will need to expect to find a menu as you walk along. For mid-day, get to one of these little places no later than 2:30 - they usually open by 2pm. By 3pm you won't get a seat. There are several places I (and Donna) recommend.
First, El Mercado de San Miguel is a must see, but try to get there just before lunch rush (2pm) or it is rather intimidating and very crowded - if you are not used to Spanish togetherness, you may not enjoy at prime time. Donna and I passed through but did not eat here. Instead we settled (not really) for a wonderful, unassuming little place just across the street: Emma + Cocina (Emma + Kitchen). The café is so understated, you'd pass it by (see picture). I magnified the little sign over the door so you can see just how unassuming this place is. They offer fantastic tapas, and Donna says they make a mean Tinto de Verano.
Another thing to mention about these restaurants: if you are open and observant, this is a very personal experience. These tend to be family businesses. Typically people from the neighborhood visit these places regularly, and the restaurants cater to their local clientele, particularly in my "barrio" Malasaña. Other parts of the city may offer more cafés that cater quite a bit to tourists. Note the board in this dining room (sala) that announces (and personalizes) who is working in the kitchen, dining room, bar, etc. The picture (right) provides an example of this. Typically, these places have 5 to 6 tables, maybe they hold 15 people and the kitchen is usually visible. Keep in mind, if you are unfamiliar with the foods and drinks, engage your camarero/a in coversation for recommendations and be fearless in your choices.
Sorry for the quick post and no geek moments!
¡Hasta la próxima entrada!
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